Such a long day that I forgot where I woke up in. Now I get it, the Bomberos. Though the lights were on all night and occasion songs would play, I slept well there. We were up early and decided to get on the road. But the b’fast place was closed and we had to hunt another one for food. I walked around and found a cathedral that was built by Eiffel, the same guy who built the tower! That’s some history there.
JF had another tube failure and was pretty pissed in the morning changing his tubes, yet again. Ah well. After all the little stuff were attended to, we hit the road. It started with a climb and we would have a few small hills along the way today. But they weren’t big and nothing too tedious. The day started warm though and after the first hill, the road was flat most of the way till we got close to Mulege when we had a bit of a climb and rode down into the valley.
It was about 65 k by then and we decided to have some lunch. A nice bit of Huevos Rancheros fit the bill and we restocked on water for the campsite tonight. We were following Gabino’s recommended spots to stop at and he had suggested a place called coyote beach. The town of mulege was a bit interesting because of the many RV parks around. I figured this was a pretty popular spot for the snow birds (old people from up north, who come down to sunny spots during winter) and it had the vibe. Lots of oldies around and driving in their big suv’s.
As we headed down the coast, the views of sea of Cortez and the hills on Pointe Conception was stunning. After about 20k’s or so, we hit the beaches. I was surprised to see pretty organised tourism here, bummer. I thought we might just wild camp along the beach, but it’s all taken up by RV’s and every tiny cove had its own little bar and a few gazebos and what not. The road was rolling and a bit steep in sections, but it was easy to ride in the cooler evening.
We eventually spotted the coyote beach and as we were contemplating camping there, some guy popped by and asked us to pay money. See here is where it bums me. The feller is asking for payment while providing no service at all. See these are public beaches and the locals rent out the gazebos to the snow birds. I can see paying for that: Some one had to build and maintain it. Paying for camping along the beach, no showers or toilets or wifi, I couldn’t understand. And this feller was just trying to take us as tourists, on a ride. Dani was pretty clear on it and refused payment and JF also did. If I were my myself, I might have grudgingly paid the feller I think.
Dani wanted to camp in the beach still, but JF wouldn’t have it. He didn’t want to be confronted later in the evening by the guy after putting up the tent. JF would rather wild camp up in the hills. By the time we decided to move on, it was almost 5:30 and the sun was going down as we scanned for the next beach. It was about 10 km away and I decided to just go for it.
JF would stop and check out some of the turn off’s but as luck would have it, the entire section was fenced with “private property” signs all along. I put my head down and rode, hoping to beat the clock and Dani stuck with me. JF was still looking around and by the time we found a decent looking turn off, we had missed him. I waited for 10 mins before exploring the spot, turned it to be marsh land and we decided not to camp there. JF wasn’t to be seen, I suppose he decided to camp some place along the way.
By this time it was pitch dark and I had to get on my headlight and ride up the next few km, I haven’t ridden in the dark in a while. As a sensible rule, I’d always stop before it gets dark, make a meal and read a book before knocking off. Luckily though the traffic was really light and it was easy to put the head down and ride.
We eventually got to a beach and after exploring a bit in he darkness, we found a shack, which seemed to have been ripped apart in the recent hurricane. Ah well, as long as there is a bit of space, we can pitch camp I reckon. I managed to put my hammock too! Turned out to be a much longer day than expected.
Route: Santa Rosalia to Playa in Bahia Conception
Distance: 108 Km
Ascent: 2900 ft
Descent: 3100 ft
Expenses: $ 25.00
Comment: I do not want to ride in the dark again.